To the Northwest of Nepal lies the fascinating country of the legendry Sherpas. In this land of mountains, Pumori stands aloof and proud as if aware of its intense effect on the valley below. From the smaller summit belonging to Kalapattar to the sparking slopes of Pumori there appears to be a path that leads to the very sky. Pumori, this incredible pyramid of snow and rocks, is indeed the pride of the Solo Khumbu.
Pumori is generally considered to be technically challenging and requires climbers to be experienced as well as in faultless physical condition. For one such climber this mountain could become the most rewarding challenger in the Himalaya.
Our trek kicks off at Lukla. For the actual climb we will use the classical route which was first opened by a German -Swiss team. We climb the enormous south-east slope till the junction with the north-east ridge. This route requires the least amount of technically: but is exposed to objective dangers: an avalanche prone section and a section exposed to seracfall. The Base Camp is at an altitude of 3500m while the advanced camp is established at an altitude of 5900m.
No high altitude experience necessary. It is mostly a snow climb up fixed lines that we will all take part in fixing. Some snow/ice climbing ability really helps here. You will need crampons and an ice axe for some of the snow/ice and mixed stretches, so experience with use of these is mandatory. Of course you will need to be in an above average shape and a positive mental attitude is as important as good physical condition.
MT. PUMORI ROUTE INFORMATION:
South Ridge- a scramble to (ABC) Advanced Base Camp, gradual to steep snow to Camp 1, to camp 2 mixed snow & ice (grade 3 ice) & rock 5.4 easy to moderate, summit day is steep snow 55 degrees.
